Tonga - 2008

For the third year in a row, I am organizing small expeditions to Tonga to observe, document, and photograph Southern Hemisphere Humpback Whales above and below the surface. Participants will be briefed on how to enter the water making as little noise as possible, proper ways to swim in the presence of whales, how to observe the whales without changing their behavior, and how to set up the camera to photograph whales. I will do everything possible to help make the trip a success, but when in the water all participants must be self-sufficient.

The boat chartered is small, and fast. The captains are extremely knowledgeable, have decades of experience, and uncanny intuition that helps them recognize which cetaceans are on the move, and which are curious and playful. With all their experience what we want to do is not easy. The whales are wild and not on anyone's time schedule, and there are other whale watching boats whose customers want to see the whales as badly as we do. For the safety of the whales, and fairness to others, several protocols need to be followed. That means we wont just motor up to the humpbacks and jump in the water. The standard is to watch the whales to observe their behavior and let them get used to our presence. If they feel we are not a threat, they will relax and that's when good interaction happens. There will be a maximum of four people plus captain and myself.

The rules state there can be no more than four swimmers plus a guide in the water at a time. I have found that with the exception of a heat run and really relaxed mother and calf that most encounters are best with two swimmers and a guide in the water. A small group of people swimming together in a parallel course not an intersecting course will have better interaction as the whales will be curious not defensive. Imagine how you would feel if large fish were swimming at you at full speed from multiple directions. I would feel threatened, so it only makes sense that the whales do too. By swimming in a group it allows the whales to get comfortable with our presence, so that we can eventually get close to make pictures.

When it comes to nature photography, the daily plan is to hurry up and wait. A lot of time is spent looking at the horizon for whale sign. When whales are sighted, many factors have to come together before we get in the water. These include the demeanor of the whales, good visibility, low winds, and flat seas. In nature there are days when the sun is out, seas are calm, and whales are present but the underwater visibility is terrible. And, there are days the sky is cloudy but the water is clear. As Mother Nature doesn't always cooperate, I am planning to two back-to-back 9-day trips. Weather can be a factor so don't be surprised if out of nine days the boat only goes out eight. The first group starts Sept 16th, 2008 and is full. The second group starts on September 25th, 2008 and goes till Oct 3rd. As of 3/27/08 there is space for one person.

Just getting to Tonga can be an adventure as it is a remote location. From most places it takes 2 days to get to, and one long day to return. The airlines in this part of the world are safe, but follow a logic not many people understand. I tell people to bring along their sense of humor and two extra books, as the flights don't always operate as advertised. Please make sure you purchase trip insurance and if there is any chance at all you might want to extend your vacation, be prepared to spend a day taking care of the details, and to pay change fees. Excess baggage is a reality. Tell everyone at the airline you're a diver and ask for it to be noted on your ticket. If lucky you may get an allowance of 20 extra pounds.

The boat fee includes pick up and drop off at closest dock to hotel, lunch, bottle of water, and fuel. Price will vary as to the number of participants going and which boat is used. The range is $300 - 400 per day. Final cost is subject to change as fuel costs may increase.

There are three standard of hotels.
The finest accommodations is at the residence. It is one of the princesses' homes. There are only two rooms and they are luxurious. The rooms are $250-300 per night.

The Pua International and Paradise hotels cost about $150. The Pua is in tow, while the Paradise is a 12 minute walk from town. The paradise includes breakfast, the Pua does not. I have stayed in both. The bottom line is the Pua is more convenient, but the Paradise includes breakfast and is a bit nicer.

The back packer hotel is about $60 per night. It is nice, clean, and in town.

Airfare will be about $1,600 depending where you're coming from. A 50% retainer is required to hold space.
-This fee is non refundable.
-The final payment is due 60 days before the trip.
-Trip insurance is required.

2009 Trips

As of right now I am planning to return to Tonga, in September, and depending upon my experience in the Azores organizing an expedition to photograph dolphins from above and below and whales from above the surface in early August. In the Azores permits are required to swim with whales and they are only issued for research, whereas in Tonga a limited number of permits are used for eco-tourism.

I am also semi-private, and private work shops in Maui. Join me for one or two days in what can be described as an educational photo safari. We will spend the day making pictures in picturesque locations above or below the surface and will talk about composition, lighting. Shutter speed, apertures, etc. Please email your dates in Maui and if you want a landscape or underwater workshop.